 |
| vendermicasa.org |
A laundry room in the basement creates a perfect place to iron, wash and dry your clothes or handle your hand-washables. Best of all, you don't have to look at dirty clothes every time you use your basement.
All your laundry essentials, not to mention the clothes, Are out of sight in
your laundry room. The overall effect is to make your laundry time easier and
the entire basement look finished. Proper planning will lead to a laundry room
that is conveniently placed and sized for you.
First Step
Measure the length of the room you desire along an outside wall. This
can be in a corner, using two exterior walls, or somewhere along the wall,
using only one exterior wall. Placing the room in the corner is easiest and
requires less material.
Second Step
Mark the length of the laundry room at both the top and bottom of the
wall. Begin and end at stud if the basement has framed walls. Locate the stud
with a stud finder or by tapping on the wall.
Repeat for the ceiling joists and
mark them overhead. Studs and joists are typically 16 inches apart, and at most
24 inches. In a concrete basement, you don't have studs.
 |
| homesfeed.com |
Third Step
Experts suggest that the minimum length -- also thought of as the width
of the room -- is 5 feet, with more than 6 feet deemed "ideal."
Allow
for at least the width of both of your laundry machines plus a foot or two of
clearance. A drawing showing what you want, including other items such as an
optional sink, cabinetry or a trash can, will help tremendously.
Fourth Step
Mark the location and length of the walls coming out from the exterior
wall. If one of these walls is an exterior wall, mark it as you did the rear
wall. For walls in the middle of the room, mark the ceiling and floor.
When
complete all the marks are connected, they will form the outline of the room.
Fifth Step
The minimum depth of the laundry room is about 6 feet. This allows for
the depth of the machines plus 3 feet clearance in front of them. A depth of 8
feet or greater is even better, allowing for more workspace.
Thus, for a room 6
foot long by 8 foot deep, your exterior wall is marked for 6 feet of length,
mirroring the front wall, and two side walls are marked to emerge 8 feet into
the basement.
 |
| gripelements.com |
Sixth Step
Assemble your walls lying flat on the floor before you erect them in
their vertical places. Cut two 2-by-4 boards for each wall, measuring them to
the length required.
These will form the bottom and top wall plates. If the
basement is concrete, use treated lumber to avoid moisture soaking into the wood
and causing it to rot.
Seventh Step
Measure down the length of the plates, two at a time, marking the stud
positions. Each stud needs to be 16 inches "on center." Studs are
actually 1 1/2-inches thick and 3 1/2-inches wide.
Turned so that the width
runs depth-wise, this means that 3/4 inch is on one side of center and 3/4 inch
is on the other. Mark 1 1/2 inches in from either end and again at 3 inches.
These indicate doubled end studs.
Mark every 16 inches between either end with
an "O" on one side and a "C" on the other to indicate the line corresponds to the stud's center.
Eight Step
Cut one stud per mark for each set of plates. Measure the height, from
the basement floor to the ceiling, and subtract 3 1/2 inches. This is the
proper stud height.
When coupled with both plates, which equal 3 inches in
thickness, plus 1/2 inch clearance to allow you to erect the wall, the height
will be perfect.
 |
| simplyhome21 |
Ninth Step
Align a stud with the first mark on one plate. Nail through the plate
with two nails to attach the stud. Continue along the plate length until all
the studs for that wall are attached.
Nail the opposite plate to the free ends
of the studs similarly. Build successive walls identically.
Tenth Step
Stand a side wall up first and then took a position according to the
wall, floor and ceiling marks. Use a level up against its side.
Next, you need
to check for plumb. Shove shims between the ceiling and wall partition to
stabilize the wall, which is 1/2-inch short when erect. Drive nails through the
top plate, into the ceiling joists were present, and through the bottom plate
into the floor.
You can use nails or other appliances for concrete floors. To
finish, start nailing the first studs into the exterior wall stud or concrete.
Erect a second side wall, if necessary, similarly.
Eleven Step
Stand
up the front wall, parallel to the exterior wall that forms the back of the
room. Check for plumb and shim in place. Attach to the wall and floor as
before. Attach the front wall to the side walls using nails to complete the
walls.
 |
| keribrownhomes.com |
Twelve Step
Insulate the walls with fiberglass or rigid foam insulation if
soundproofing or temperature insulation is preferred. You might choose your own
preference of wall sheathing, both inside and outside of the laundry room.
Either nail paneling in place or you can cut and screw drywall to the walls.
Finish drywall joints and screw heads with finishing compound and tape. Top
with another layer of compound, allow it to dry before sanding and repeat
layers until the finish is smooth and blemish-free.
Things You Will Need
• Tape
measure 2-by-4s
•
Carpenter's square
• 16
d nails
•
Hammer
•
Circular saw
•
Carpenter's level
•
Powder actuated nails
•
Powder actuated nail gun
•
Wood shims
•
Insulation (optional)
•
Wall sheathing
•
Drywall compound (optional)
•
Drywall tape (optional)
•
Drywall finishing material
•
Sandpaper
 |
| hgtv.com |
Some Tip for You
Placed cabinets, attached to the wall studs,
and hang light to complete your laundry room. Other options are a laundry sink,
electrical outlets spaced along the walls, and even a half bathroom.
Warning
Before doing any modification to your house,
you must check with the local authority in your area. Most locations require
building permits, inspections, and rules specific to your location.
No comments:
Post a Comment